What you'll notice immediately about L’Express is its authenticity. The room looks like it was plucked straight out of Paris. There is a long bar with a partition separating it from the dining room. The tables are well spaced, but the room has energy, so bring your own. Reservations are highly recommended. I arrived as a solo diner on a Monday at 7:45 and had to return an hour later just to sit at the bar—it was worth waiting. After choosing my meal, the waiter set a massive container of cronichon on the table with bread, butter, and mustard. Don't skip tasting them—the cronichon are pure perfection, and the mustard is spicy and tart, a classic dijon. The real challenge is not finishing it all (though with the huge jar of pickles, it's impossible; but beware: bread is the enemy). My order needed to be classic but not pedestrian, so I chose the cured salmon, served over a bed of thinly sliced cabbage, dressed with cream, lemon, and dill, and garnished with radish and micro-greens. Wow, this was such a surprise. I was blown away. Great fish, paired with a salad I would have never considered, a true win. For my main, I ordered the hanger steak (Aka Steak Frites) along with a wine of the server's choosing after letting him know what I usually enjoy. The steak was great, served with hotel butter, cooked to perfection. On the side were the fries, hot and crisp, with a fluffy interior and a generous serving of mayo. I ate everything and required a coffee just to make it to my hotel. I will be back, with reservations and a larger group next time, so I can try more of the menu, but my first impression... O la la!
