By André Magny
With a breathtaking view of La Malbaie, formerly named by Champlain, the Auberge des Falaises also offers in its panoramic restaurant, at Le Perché gourmand, quite stunning textures and flavors, thank you.
"It would be important to say in your article that in my dishes I bring all my personality, all my soul. "Alain Morel, chef at Auberge des Falaises in Charlevoix, took the trouble to call the journalist from restoenligne.com to share his feelings.
Pandemic or not, the native Norman is in his 26th year in the kitchens of the Auberge. From chef de partie, to sous-chef, for 10 years he has been the head chef of the Perché Gourmand kitchens.
Meals resumed in early July. But the Covid-19 having meant that some of his employees recruited in France were retained there and that these were added supply problems, the chef had to cut lunches as well as the buffet.
The terroir on your plate
However, there was no compromise on the regional aspect. “There is something local on practically every plate. For example, in the shrimp and scallop duo, there is tomato alcohol. In Baie Saint-Paul, there is, in fact, the Omerto estate, where a delicious tomato wine is produced there.
As for its famous goat cheese and banana tart, it is reminiscent of the products of the Chèvrerie de Charlevoix.
But before tackling the desserts, make room to literally enjoy one or two starters like a slice of pan-seared foie gras with pear mistelle from Cidrerie et Vergers Pedneault de l'Isle-aux-Coudres; or the emu bundle from the Charlevoix Emu Center in St-Urbain with meat ice cream mounted in butter, surrounded by sour cherries and ginger, not to mention the sea trout from Les Éboulements, with beetroot and coulis of yellow beets and guacamole.
As a main course, a proposal: the Angus beef mignon with a Mad Cow reduction. But what about the Cod escalope à la Grenoble, fennel puree and seasonal vegetables ?! We will then understand why the Basques crossed the Atlantic to fish for cod!
Of course, you won't be able to taste everything at once. At the next meal, please order at least the strawberry gazpacho and its delectable cedar sorbet. Chef Morel smiles at this suggestion, which will delight lovers of fusion cuisine. “I know, the customers are flipping over this! »Why combine strawberry and cedar? “Firstly, to showcase the strawberries from Île d'Orléans, which are delivered to us fresh every day. As for cedar, it is everywhere on the grounds of the Auberge. "
Beyond the pandemic
“I didn't wait for the pandemic to put regional products on my menu. "Since becoming a chef, Alain Morel has made it a point of honor to work with finds made in Charlevoix. This is the case with the emu. Presented to clients since 2003, Alain Morel has persisted. As a result, over the past four years he has estimated that he has sold twice as much as four years ago.
“When I try new products, I test them in the dish of the day. But to try new dishes, he needs input, not only from customers, but from his staff as well. “You need staff to be able to dialogue, find ideas from each other. I like everyone to put their expertise into it. When he offers a dish from a member of his brigade on the menu, he knows it will take pride in them. “No chef could run a restaurant alone. "
Did we talk about soul, personality at the very beginning? Le Perché Gourmand sur sa cliff certainly has it.
